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Route Summary This is an overnight hike which visits Zealand Pond, Zealand Falls, and Zealand Falls Hut. There are good outlooks into Zealand and Carrigain Notches from in front of the hut and the nearby Whitewall Brook ledges. The night was spent at the AMC's Zealand Falls Hut.
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Trail Guide
Deb arranged a wonderful winter adventure for us with an overnight stay at the AMC Zealand Falls Hut. Since Zealand Road is closed during the winter our trek started on Route 302, 0.2 mile east of Zealand Road. Zealand Road itself is 3.5 miles which means we'd be hiking 3.7 miles just to get to the Zealand Trailhead. Then via Zealand Trail and Twinway it's another 2.7 miles to the hut. We had considered taking Spruce Goose Ski Trail which roughly parallels Zealand Road. But that would have been 0.6 mile longer than the road and when we caught glimpses of it from the road, it was unbroken and looked to be seldom traveled. By the time we had loaded up our heavy, bulky backpacks, we had decided the smooth roadway, with the first mile plowed, sounded pretty appealing. For those interested in following Spruce Goose Ski Trail, it parallels the west side of Zealand Road and is marked by blue diamonds. There is a signed trailhead for it on the right-hand side of Zealand Road just a short ways in from Route 302. The cross-country ski trail passes through the Sugarloaf Campgrounds and I believe just beyond that point, it must dip out to the road just long enough to cross Zealand River on the road's bridge. Then it keeps to the woods and finally rejoins the road just before the Zealand Trail parking lot. This end of the trail is indicated by just a skiier logo sign. Eight Seacoast Dayhikers decided to tackle this adventure in one form or another. Sharon, sticking to the literal meaning of "dayhiker" hiked to the hut and back all in the same day which is about 13 miles. Even with that long undertaking, she was kind enough to bring up her fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies to share which she left with us. Five hiked out Sunday morning while Cheryl and Rachel stayed an additional night and achieved a challenging winter ascent of both Zealand Mountain and Mount Guyot on Sunday. Deb, Tom, and Sharon started the hike at 9:15 since we consider ourselves the official "slowpokes". Diane, Mark, Cheryl, Rachel, and Reinhild started around 10:30. We each wore snowshoes and/or some kind of microspikes. Those that opted not to use snowshoes experienced some postholing if they stepped off the packed trail even by a little. When we started it was snowing lightly, was breezy, and the temperature was about 10 degrees which had dropped down to 5 below zero by the time Sharon finished her out-and-back trek. The snow, although light, accompanied us for most of our ascent. Near the start of Zealand Road was a moderate uphill but most of the road climbed at a gentle slope. The first mile of the road, although plowed, had enough snow on it so wearing snowshoes was no problem. Beyond that a single-file trail was well-packed; this is a pretty popular route even in the winter, frequented by both hikers and cross-country skiers. Upon reaching Zealand Trailhead, some of us took a snack break, sitting on a bench whose seat was only a couple inches above the snowpack. Zealand Trail was beautiful with its abundant snow-cloaked conifers. It ascended gently. With the snowpack smoothing out the trail I think this was an easier climb than it is in summer with all the roots and rocks and minute ups and downs wearing down one's energy. There were a few gentle downhills mixed in and several stream crossings on bridges. At one point were about a half-dozen trees whose bark had been scraped by antler rubbings. The wetlands area, crossed via an inviting boardwalk was beautiful as always. Through the haze Zealand Ridge's outline could be detected and the sun made a very brief appearance. Later we crossed a pretty bouldery brook on a bridge. The rocks were all covered in snow making the whole scene look wonderfully fluffy. Zealand Pond appeared to the right with a mountainous bulk towering above it on the opposite shoreline. In the summer you can detect Whitewall Brook tumbling over ledges and down this bulk and can usually spot a few hikers at the top. Perched next to the ledges was Zealand Falls Hut looking intimidatingly high above the pond considering all that elevation was to be tackled over only 0.2 mile. The pitch to the hut turned out to be steep but blessedly short. Partway up, I took a detour on the short spur to check out Zealand Falls. The falls and river were totally covered in snow with very little ice visible. Usually upon reaching the hut you are immediately rewarded with a good view but the weather showed only thick, gray skies. I made the short detour to check out the Whitewall Brook ledges and like the falls, they were pretty much covered in snow and not terribly interesting. The hut Saturday night was a buzz of activity with 35 guests including several children plus one caretaker. It was chilly until around 4 p.m. when the fire started and then it was pretty cozy. Deb hauled up two huge trays of lasagne and a bottle of wine and we dined on that, salad and tacos. We had enough food left to give to the caretaker. The hut was efficiently layed out with a central main room housing the woodstove and three sturdy tables. High up above hung two clever coat racks. A simple rope and pully system allowed the racks to be lowered and raised as people needed to hang or retrieve their wet gear. The kitchen was beyond the main room towards the back. Off to either side of the common room was an 18-bed bunk room. The caretaker had his space in the loft. To use the bathrooms you had to go outside onto the porch and then over to a separate building which didn't have any heat source at all and felt quite frigid (they have chemical toilets). Due to the cold there was no running water. Water came from a pump and then was brought inside and heated up on the gas stove for hot drinks and washing dishes. We played games before dinner while waiting for our assigned stove slot and again after dinner. All especially liked "Apples to Apples" which Deb brought up. It was so uplifting to get out and enjoy the beauty of winter and the contagious merriment of the Seacoast Dayhikers. We stayed up and played more games til past lights out with just our headlamps until 9 p.m. Even though there was no heat in the hut in the morning, we didn't feel too uncomfortable and were relieved the Zealand Valley yielded 6 degrees–at this point anything above zero was a bonus. Mark reports his bunk area was 20 degrees at 4 a.m. so the sleeping areas probably fell to the teens briefly. I believe everyone had a zero or lower rated sleeping bag. For the most part we remarked we were overly warm through the night, attributable in part to the miracle of hand, foot and body chemical warming packs. I went through about ten sets of those this weekend and could not have managed the hut temps without them. Everyone had a great time staying at the hut and some are hoping to go again next year since it was so much fun. Many thanks to Deb for planning this trip! |
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Driving Directions
Parking for this hike is at the winter Zealand lot in Bethlehem, New Hampshire on the north side of Rt. 302. From the East:
From the West:
Winter: Zealand Road is closed to vehicular travel during the winter, although hikers and skiers are welcome to use it. Snowmobile trails also intersect the road in a couple spots. There is a large winter parking lot on Route 302, 0.2 mile east of Zealand Road. If starting this hike from the summer lot, you can subtract 3.7 miles (each way) and 500 feet of elevation gain from the hike. During the summer, drive to the very end of Zealand Road to find the Zealand Trailhead. Check out the White Mountain National Forest's road status page for the most up-to-date information on road closures. Facilities Zealand Falls Hut with bathrooms and kitchen and lodging facilities. Other Notes WMNF Recreational Pass A parking permit is required to park at White Mountain National Forest trailheads and parking areas. You can purchase a WMNF permit from the forest service and other vendors and can also pay-by-the-day using self-service kiosks located in many parking areas. For more information on parking passes please refer to the White Mountain National Forest website. Rates:
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More Zealand Pond, Zealand Falls, Zealand Falls Hut Trail Reports
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